Proper Harness Condition and Fit

Whenever a horse is put to harness, whether it is for training, pleasure or show it is important that the harness be in good operable condition and properly fits the horse.

Harness does not have to be brand new to be serviceable but in good condition without evidence of excessive wear. Before use, especially after being stored over the winter, it is important to check all buckles and stitching. Buckles will wear, becoming thin and weak in spots where the leather passes through and rubs against the metal. Checking the buckle tongues is especially important during inspection. The tongues take the brunt of the force and will start to crack or break entirely through without being noticed. Stitching will also break with stress, but the most common stitching defect is rotted stitches that break or pull out. Rotted stitches are usually the result of using too much oil when conditioning the leather.

Other signs to look for in a defective harness is dry leather that is cracked and easily broken; leather that is too oily which will stretch and pull apart easily; and leather that has rodent damage. Also inspect any area where the leather passes through metal. This should not be limited to buckle areas, but also where the breeching and breast collar straps pass through the "O" or "D" rings and where the reins pass through the backsaddle terrets, breastcollar terrets and at the bit attachment. It is also important to check the bit, looking for rust; flaking metal (usually see in chrome or nickel plated bits); and stress cracks in the metal where the mouthpiece joins the bar, and in the rings where the headstall and reins attach.

Anytime the horse is in harness, the harness should be properly adjusted to ensure a comfortable and safe fit. If harness pads are used, it is important to make sure they are clean, dry and securely fastened. Harness pads that slip and rub can sometimes cause more problems than if no harness pads are used at all.

Wet, muddy or sweaty harness pads will irritate the horse's skin, often causing skin irritations that take days, even weeks to heal.

Starting at the head, good bridle fit is essential for safety. Blinders or Winkers should not touch the eye or eyelashes, but should fit snug enough to prevent the horse from seeing behind or alongside. The eye should fit in the center of the winker. The throatlatch should be snug enough to prevent the bridle from slipping off the horse's head, but not tight enough to choke the horse. The Caveson or Noseband should be buckled tightly to prevent the horse from pulling its tongue over the bit. If appropriate to the bit being used, the Curbchain should lie flat in the groove of the horse's chin with two finger space between the chin and chain so that the skin is not pinched. The Bit should lie evenly on the bars of the jaw in the interdental space. The horse's teeth should be floated annually so that interference of the teeth with the bit is not likely. Care should be taken that the bit is of the proper width for the horse's mouth so as not to pinch the lips. A bit drawn up too high in the mouth will interfere with the tongue and cause sores in the corner of the mouth. A bit hung too low will allow the horse -to pull its tongue over the bit and not give the driver the necessary control. Reins should be attached in the appropriate shaft notch or ring to ensure proper control.

The Breastcollar should be positioned so that is will not impede the motion or breathing of the horse. A breastcollar adjusted too highly will constrict the wind pipe, while a collar hung below the point of the shoulder restricts the shoulder's range of motion. The Neckstrap should sit in front of the withers. The Backsaddle sits just behind the withers of the horse, not directly on the withers, and should not touch the back. There should be space between the tree and the backbone of the horse. The bars of the tree should lie to either side of the backbone, keeping direct pressure off the spine. The Bellyband or Girth should not be as tight as one would girth up a saddle, but allow the passage of one finger between the horse and band.

The adjustment of the Breeching is very important. Breeching that is too loose serves no purpose, and breeching adjusted too high or low can cause a horse to buck, scooch down or become entangled. The intent of the breeching is to act as a brake and help hold the carriage back when going downhill. In order for it to work properly, the breeching should be hung low enough over the hips that the horse can sit its haunches back in it, but not low enough to hit the hocks. Hung too high, the breeching can get caught under the dock of the tail. The Breeching Straps should be adjusted so that the breeching fits snugly against the horse but not too tight as to cause the horse to lose its footing. Straps that are too loose allow the shafts to push forward, until they are stopped by the backsaddle. This turns the backsaddle and girth into the brake. Pressure from the carriage in this manner will soon cause girth sores and bruised withers.

Another problem may also occur with poorly fitted breeching. Often the distance between the front of the carriage and the back of the horse is not great, and long breeching straps will allow the carriage to hit the horse, riding up on his legs and haunches.

Harness that is properly fitted and in prime condition is essential for the safety of the driver, passengers and anyone that comes within range of the carriage.